Founded in 1876, the Appalachian Mountain Club (AMC) is a remarkable, pioneering environmental organization run by volunteers. It serves a role like none other by enabling people of all ages and athletic abilities to enjoy the great outdoors with its well maintained trails and housing.  We spent a weekend exploring the Appalachian Trail in New Hampshire's White Mountains at AMC's newest lodge, the Highland Center.

Joining the AMC family of six lodges, the Highland Center at Crawford Notch is not the first rustic resort to occupy this unspoiled, 26-acre parcel of wildflower fields among lakes, forest, and peaks. The contemporary wooden chalet was built on the site of the turn-of-the-century Crawford House, an enormous summer resort in the style of the still functioning and quite beautiful Mt. Washington Hotel, just 5 miles down the road.  Like many of its 19th century grand wooden resorts, the Crawford House burned to the ground.

Back in the day, Crawford House patrons took advantage of the nearby rail lines (the classic Victorian-era station is now an AMC information center) to get away from the brutal air and summer heat of cities choking on the industrial revolution. The Crawford brothers wined, dined and provided healthful walks for their affluent patrons, who used the surrounding forest for hiking, fishing and camping out. Guests from the resort and nearby B&Bs would ascend the Crawford Trail across the road, many en route to the summit of Mt. Washington, more than 8 miles away.

Making the World Better One Tree Hugger at a Time

Today's AMC Highland Center at Crawford Notch meets the same needs for travelers, albeit as a non-profit venture dedicated to educational adventures and environmental stewardship. Many years ago, we had stayed at the AMC's Joe Dodge Lodge at Pinkham Notch, New Hampshire, and fondly recalled a long weekend of stunning scenery, hearty meals, friendly guests, evening talks and nature films, so we eagerly booked a weekend at this one.
 
The Highland Center's imposing but cozy living room area overlooks White Mountains National Forest, and offers several soft couches, and a large stone fireplace that becomes the centerpiece of guest socials and board games.

Lodge accommodations are simple, clean and comfortable, with eco-friendly low-flow toilets, faucets, and showerheads, down comforters, comfy leather chairs, and carpeting made from recycled plastics. Rooms range in size from double with a queen bed and private bath to family rooms with a queen and two bunk beds down to dorm style rooms with a shared bath. It's rewarding to know that the lodge furnishings were donated by the New England outdoors legend L.L. Bean.

The original Crawford House Garage, survivor of the big fire, is used as staff housing. Also on property is the newly constructed Thayer Conference Center, a meeting facility where evening programs are held.

Rates include breakfast and dinner daily, as well as a full program of guided hikes, lectures and access to the AMC's well kept trails. Talk about hearty meals: the big breakfast buffet consists of  eggs, bacon, sausage, homefries, fresh muffins, pancakes with local syrup, and an extensive cereal bar with granola, muesli, hot oatmeal, assorted nuts, berries, fresh fruit and yoghurt. Delicious Green Mountain Coffee (of neighboring Vermont) has survived the Starbucks juggernaut to rule as New England's coffee purveyor of choice. At supper, large platters of meat, locally raised vegetables, salad, fresh baked bread and homemade cakes are either shared family style or offered in a buffet.  Either way, the food is hearty and delicious.  The young cook staff proved talented beyond their years.  Trail lunches can be purchased in the morning, although some huts also provide a simple repast if you are able to target your hike to land at the lunch hour.

AMC staff are exceedingly helpful and knowledgeable, with an especially sincere love of the outdoors that is infectious. The entire crew, many of whom are college kids with summer jobs or internships in environmental programs, are very engaged with younger guests. They come around to each table and advise guests about the next day's weather, offer tips on potential hikes, and promote the evening programs.

Nightly offerings range from talks by a visiting naturalist or a movie about an outdoors topic, but some will opt for the nightly moose spotting missions that take guests out to look (from safely inside a van) for the majestic beasts, who are quite common in the area. Every weekend throughout the year (some themed to family harvest, senior fitness or the holidays) offers special day activities in cross country skiing, digital photography, orienteering, family outdoor adventures, alpine wildflowers, bird watching, “leave no trace” environmental programs and others, all free of charge. Kids ages 5-12 can complete a workbook with staff help and become certified Junior Naturalists any time.

Wonderful Trails for All Levels of Hikers

Unlike the Pinkham Notch Lodge, which necessitated an AMC shuttle to the best trailheads, the newer Highlands Lodge has several excellent hikes available right outside the door. Young children and family members who are less capable hikers will appreciate two of them. The Ammonoosuc Lake Trail begins at the back door of the lodge and leads around a beautiful lake, just a 1.2 miles walk, with the slightly more challenging Red Bench side trail leading to, yes, a legendary red bench with a panoramic view of the Presidential Range across the way.

A hike around Saco Lake is less than half a mile and less satisfying because of the adjacent highway, but it begins across the road from the lodge. Families can watch fly fishermen practicing their art while admiring the bird life circling the shore.

As moderately fit babyboomers, we enjoyed the three-hour hike to the top of Mt. Willard. Although it was raining (the dense forest canopy protects  rainy day hikers ), and there were somewhat foggy views from the summit, it was a wonderful way to spend the afternoon. The distance covered is 3.2 miles and the rise in elevation is 900 feet. It was a good introductory challenge but a real pleasure.

Conquering the Presidential Range

Feeling weary but fit and maybe a little cocky, the next day we tackled Mt Pierce, one of the treasured “4000 Footers” of the White Mountains, a club of peaks that includes the Presidential Range,  the King of which is Mt. Washington, weighing in at 6288 feet.  The ascent of Mt. Pierce primarily follows the Crawford Trail, the oldest continuously maintained trail in this country.  The vertical climb is 2400-foot over  about 3 miles up, 6.2 miles roundtrip. You start across the highway from the Highland Lodge and can go roundtrip directly to and from the peak, or detour on either leg by way of the wonderful Mizpah (meaning pillar of the wilderness) Hut for soup and hot chocolate. Be advised that at least one-third of the trail between Mizpah Hut and the summit is very steep and presents a challenge in either direction.  The roundtrip varies between four and six hours, depending on whether you pause at Mizpah (we did), whether or not you linger to enjoy the views of Mt. Eisenhower, Mt. Monroe, Mt. Washington and other peaks in the Presidential Range from the summit of Mt. Pierce (we did) and whether or not you pause to soak your weary feet at the roaring Gibbs Waterfall (we did).

The more serious hikers will stay over at Mizpah Hut (requires reservations for the multi-bedded bunk rooms and meals) and continue northeast to bag  the Presidential sequence of Eisenhower, Franklin, Monroe and, the big guy, Washington.  The Lake of the Clouds Hut makes a good second night stopover, with Washington greeting you on day three.

Let's be clear:  a 4000 footer presents a physical challenge, but we came away respecting gravity all the more.  If you're in less than good shape, it will take more time and a lot of heavy breathing, but by all means, give it a try, even if you're a novice. Do some training and plan ahead to stay a night at one of the huts en route so the kids can rest up.

Families who feel ill-equipped to undertake long hikes should know that the AMC Lodges have small shops selling mountaineering equipment and a loaner program with some gear donated by L.L. Bean.  My husband really appreciated the support given by his Leki trekking poles. Like ski poles, they provide stability, balance and support for bad knee joints, and they became popular hiking buddies. 

Details, Details

The Appalachian Mountain Club - Highland Center at Crawford Notch (603/278-4453) is located on Route 302, in Bretton Woods, NH  03575. It provides a special and gratifying vacation for grandparents and parents who long to introduce the great outdoors to kids but don't feel prepared to go camping without some support.  The AMC makes it easy and fun to adventure in the White Mountains, as long as you don't expect a swimming pool (there are lakes), spa (however, there's one at the nearby posh Mt. Washington Hotel), babysitting, or even laundry facilities – this is a getaway about mud, wearing old clothes more than once, and leaving your hiking shoes outside your hotel room door (but do not expect them to be polished!)

Do participate in the guided offerings, many of them led by the soft-spoken Jed, who took us on two early morning walks to learn about birds and animal tracks. Especially with kids new to hiking, having a guide and other participants to set the pace can make an introduction to this lifelong sport much easier.

Up to 120 guests can stay in either a Lodge room with private bath or shared bath; family rooms with a double bed and two twins; or at the Shapleigh Bunkhouse next door, in a dorm with shared facilities, for about half the price. For 2008, rates range from $85/N to $132/N per adult for a private room with private bath, two meals and all activities, depending on season. Shared bath facilities begin at $58/N per adult and $39/N per child, or in the bunkhouse  at $32/N per adult or child (breakfast only). The lowest rates are during the month of April and from Nov. 1-December 25th, with the highest rates over the President's Day week and Christmas/New Years.  The Highland Center provides hike in access to the Mizpah Hut and a bit farther, to the Zealand Hut.  Reservations are required and with significant lead time in the summer months and holiday weeks.  The hut's nightly tariff averages around $75/night for adults, $48/ for kids, including breakfast and dinner.  If you join the AMC, there's a discount on all rates.

The AMC Hut system is a well-run operation and provides a rare hut-to-hut hiking experience with a decent level of comfort.  We highly recommend booking one night at these self-contained, solar and wind-powered outposts where all accommodations are bunk style. You can dine and share compost toilets with the college kids who staff them and hike up and back daily to portage in your meals. It's a treat!